Hydraulic Dump Trailer Troubleshooting

So, you've got your hydraulic dump trailer out on a job site. It's miserably hot, you've got 5 Tons of mulch, trash, shrubs or horse "business" to unload, spread and then go back for more, and you've got 5 more hours to get it done. You go to raise the dump and "Click"... nothing happens. This might be a good time to reflect on your spiritual side. Luckily, a 12VDC hydraulic unit aren't the most complex systems in the world and they are quite easy to troubleshoot. Here is a list of things to check on your dump trailer hydraulic system before you blow a gasket. And if all else fails, give me a call @ 888-898-5031.

1. Make sure battery is fully charged. (no-brainer, but I had to put it first)
   
2. Check ground wire (usually attached to frame). The unit will operate but not perform to its full capability if not properly grounded.
   
3. Make sure reservoir is at least ¾ full of oil.
   
4. Check the solenoid valves on top of unit. When energized, solenoid will magnetize, grabbing metal object if placed inside (such as a screwdriver). Remove to test. If solenoid does not magnetize, replace.
   
5. Check amperage (230A draw under Full-Load)
   
6. Check voltage (at least 10VDC)
   
7. Replace battery if the proper amp / volts cannot be obtained.
   
8. Make sure solenoid nuts are not too tight. (approx. 3-5 ft/lbs)
   
9. Make sure solenoid valve(s) are not over-tightened. (approx. 30 ft/lbs )
   

If your Power unit has gone to that big scrapyard in the sky, we have replacement units available in a hurry on our website, stores.DaltonHydraulic.com/DC Power Units.

How to measure a hydraulic cylinder

Due to the large number of requests I get, I thought I would take the time to clear up a few questions people have when it comes to how to size a hydraulic cylinder. There are MANY different configurations, and lots of people use lots of different names for the parts of a cylinder, so I thought I would try to make it a little easier.

Q: How do I find the "Bore"?
A: This is the diameter of the the piston INSIDE the cylinder tube. Larger bore = more lifting force. As a rule of thumb, Bore is approximately equal outside diameter of tube minus .5"

Q: What do you mean by "Stroke"?
A: This is the actual travel of the cylinder; Extended length (pin-to-pin centers) minus the retracted length (pin-to-pin center)

Q: What's this "Retract" mean?
A: Length, pin center to pin center, when the cylinder is fully closed.


Q: What does "ASAE" mean?
A: 8" and 16" stroke cylinders are available in ASAE and non-ASAE (Standard). All ASAE 8" Stroke cylinders are 20.25" retracted (vs 18.25" for non-ASAE) and 16" stroke cylinders are 31.5" retracted (vs 28.25" non-ASAE). Who decided this, I honestly don't know, nor do I know why, only that the ASAE cylinders have more room for adjustment.

Q: What's a clevis?
A: The most common mounting option, this consists of two "ears" on each end, with holes drilled for a pins to go through.

Q: What is a cross-tube?
A: This is a mounting option used on heavy-duty cylinders, consisting of one "cross tube" or "bushing" solidly welded to the cylinder tubing or rod end.

Q: What is a Tie-Rod Cylinder and what's the difference between it and a welded cylinder?
A: Tie-rod cylinders are the most common on agricultural applications. The "tie-rods" are the 4 long bolts or rods that run the length of the cylinder, holding it together. These are the most economical and easiest to rebuild, but have more interconnected parts, which gives it more possible places it could leak. Welded cylinders are much more robust, with fewer parts and larger rods which are much less likely to bend under excessive forces. Welded cylinders are also much more difficult to repair in the field.

Q: Will your cylinder will fit my 1972 FARMCO WHIRLI-MA-GIG-AMA-BOB?
A: I don't know, I don't work for them. Using the above info, please measure it a I'll see what I can do!

If you have any questions about hydraulic cylinders email me @ kmyers@daltonnet.com